how to clean carburetor on kawasaki ultra 150

1. 07-03-2006,09:24 PM #1

   

   PWCToday.com Is My Home Away From Home

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   Ultra 150 Carb Removal

   Hey guys,

   Quick question... a buddy of mine's Ultra 150 just lost all compression on #2 and we're trying to tear it down. On the Ultra 150, what all is actually securing the carbs to the block? We've removed the hex bolts and I THINK that's all that is left, however these carbs are REALLY stuck on there. I'm assuming it's just the gasket being really stuck tight... has anyone else ever had this happen? This thing has a lot of rust.

   Thanks,

   Brian

   Current:
   2003 Kawasaki SX-R 800 with FP wet pipe
   2006 Sea-Doo RXP (stock)
   2006 Sea-Doo RXP (minor mods)

   Past:
   2000 Yamaha GP1200R
   2004 Honda R-12X with Macboost stage 2

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2. 07-06-2006,12:18 AM #2

   

   PWCToday Regular

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   Re: Ultra 150 Carb Removal

   Kawasaki has all there parts diagrams online so you can find all the info you need. Start here

   http://www.kawasaki.com/Default.asp?...=3&Jump=Search

   pick your model/year, parts diagrams, them check under flame arrestor. The carbs are mounted to the intake by 6 6x120mm hex bolts (2 /carb) that run thru the carb boby and dowel pins (2/carb). You may be having trouble removing the carbs from the pins. If you're sure you have everything off, a few light taps with a wood mallet might help. Or you could remove the intake with the carbs - 6 nuts per port.

   2001 Ultra 150
   2004 STX-R

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3. 07-06-2006,01:01 AM #3

   

   PWCToday.com Is My Home Away From Home

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   Re: Ultra 150 Carb Removal

   Thanks... yeah we've got that far. Unfortunately where we are at now is that 1 of the 2 hex bolts per carb got stripped and the head had to be drilled off... so basically each carb still has one stud going through it which doesn't help us wiggle it off. Unfortunately the previous owner of this ski used it in a lot of salt water and obviously never heard of Salt-Away as EVERYTHING is rusted / stuck in this thing. PB Blaster isn't even helping.

   Also I can't get to ONE of the 6 nuts on the #2 cylinder's carb as the exhaust manifold is in the way. I'm not totally out of ideas yet... but basically this thing is just stuck together... seriously stuck together...

   Thanks,

   Brian

   Current:
   2003 Kawasaki SX-R 800 with FP wet pipe
   2006 Sea-Doo RXP (stock)
   2006 Sea-Doo RXP (minor mods)

   Past:
   2000 Yamaha GP1200R
   2004 Honda R-12X with Macboost stage 2

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4. 07-06-2006,12:55 PM #4

   

   Frequent Poster

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   Re: Ultra 150 Carb Removal

   If the motor is still in hull pull it out (very easy on that ski ) then you can have your way with it. Use only kawi pistons call skiworx he sells complete top end kit @ good price. How many hours on ski? Better hope you don't need a crank$$$$$$$.

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5. 07-06-2006,01:25 PM #5

   

   Resident Guru

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   Re: Ultra 150 Carb Removal

   Please use the correct tools so you don't strip anymore bolts. If you'd had the correct size socket, those bolts wouldn't be stripped. They may have sheared off due to the torque, but they wouldn't have stripped.

   "Build a man a fire and he's warm for a day, but set fire to him and he's warm for the rest of his life!" -Anonymous

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6. 07-06-2006,01:57 PM #6

   

   PWCToday.com Is My Home Away From Home

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   Re: Ultra 150 Carb Removal

   Engine is now out of the hull and had about 150 hours. We were using the correct size hex socket, the problem is that the bolts are so rusted tight that it stripped... no matter how careful we were. The metal used on them really seemed soft....

   Current:
   2003 Kawasaki SX-R 800 with FP wet pipe
   2006 Sea-Doo RXP (stock)
   2006 Sea-Doo RXP (minor mods)

   Past:
   2000 Yamaha GP1200R
   2004 Honda R-12X with Macboost stage 2

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7. 07-06-2006,02:13 PM #7

   

   Resident Guru

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   Re: Ultra 150 Carb Removal

   The bolts were rusted? They're supposed to be stainless steel and the metric equivalent to grade 8. Grade 8 bolts DO NOT round to heads if using the correct size socket, instead the head will shear off from the torque.

   Sounds like someone had those carbs off before and didn't reinstall with the correct hardware.

   Even with those bolt shafts remaining you should be able to knock the carbs loose. There should still be alittle play between the carb and the bolt shaft. If there's none, then bolts have corrosion around them creating a friction fit against the carbs. Good luck if thats the case, you'll need lots of penetrating oil. Something like "PB Blaster" will work wonders...

   "Build a man a fire and he's warm for a day, but set fire to him and he's warm for the rest of his life!" -Anonymous

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8. 07-06-2006,04:33 PM #8

   

   PWCToday.com Is My Home Away From Home

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   Re: Ultra 150 Carb Removal

   Yeah, the bolts were rusted into the block. They appeared to be the correct ones and they themselves didn't really rust, but the threads are covered in rust (even the ones that came out). I'm pretty sure we were using the correct size socket, 5.5mm Allen hex I believe. And the carbs are now sorta loose, but they are still getting hung up on the studs and there is plenty of friction there trying to remove them.... and PB Blaster had already been using extensivly. Honestly this thing is really a mess.

   Current:
   2003 Kawasaki SX-R 800 with FP wet pipe
   2006 Sea-Doo RXP (stock)
   2006 Sea-Doo RXP (minor mods)

   Past:
   2000 Yamaha GP1200R
   2004 Honda R-12X with Macboost stage 2

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how to clean carburetor on kawasaki ultra 150

Source: http://www.pwctoday.com/showthread.php?t=80294

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